阳光西班牙（三十一）隆达

        在安达卢西亚，西班牙的最南部省份，从米哈斯出来，向西一个多钟头的车程就到了隆达。3000多年前，一群人风尘仆仆地爬上西班牙安达卢西亚地区的一座750米的峭壁，伊比利亚半岛最南端炽热的阳光点亮了他们疲惫的眼睛。因为地势险要，所以安全无忧。因为林木丰美，河水丰沛，所以食物无缺。他们在此安居下来，一幢幢白色的房屋在峡谷之上蔓延开。1735年，一座横跨埃尔塔霍峡谷的“新桥”始建，峡谷两侧终于可以连通起来。今天，站在峡谷的脚下，依然会有置身梦中的错觉：一幢幢白色屋舍盘踞在直上直下的崖壁上，宛如朵朵白云从山坡蔓延至天际。这里有安达卢西亚最浓烈的风情，是电影《卡门》的外景地，是斗牛的故乡。它有着西班牙民族最强烈的气质，风情万种，倔强不羁。最挑剔的人也会为这片云端中的白色小镇而倾倒。空谷幽声就是这里的写照。

        那座1735年建造的新桥，竣工6年后意外倒塌，造成50人丧生的局面，直到1751年才启动复建工程，这一次的工程耗时42年，巩固了桥基，也成就了它跃为隆达地标的荣耀。任何描绘隆达的图面都可以看到新桥跨越埃尔塔霍峡谷的雄姿。极为特别的是，中段的桥拱暗藏了一间约60平方米大小的屋室，这间小室的利用率很高，最为人熟知的用途是作为死刑犯的拘留所，现在当然已封闭，只能从桥的侧面远远地观望一下。海明威的《丧钟为谁而鸣》曾描述过一个小城在西班牙内战初期的故事，说小城里有个悬崖，两侧的敌对双方打来打去。战后，战败的一方不论生死，一块被扔下悬崖。这段故事描述的正是龙达和它的新桥！

        这里还有那古老的斗牛场，青铜斗士的斗篷仍在那里飘逸。还有教堂的钟声响起，还有小巷里的马车达达。峭壁边上的凉亭，吉他手正在弹出优美的旋律...

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