短暂的欧洲行（十一）意大利比萨

     

      罗马游完计划是到皮亚琴察，注明的是意大利是美丽的半岛国家沿途看看就行。实际是留出了时间去比萨，好在全团都同意自费，大巴直奔著名的斜塔。这个地方好办，车开到景点的门口自己走就行啦，里面叫奇迹广场，一共四个，都著名：洗礼堂、大教堂、斜塔、墓地。进大门前经过一溜的摊点，卖的都是斜塔，大大小小。不知为什么，这里卖东西的都是黑人，高高大大，满脸漆黑，不知是从非洲那个地方移民过来的。在这里只要你一举相机，这些老黑立刻制止，嘴里还佛克油佛克油地喊，吓得你赶紧离开他们。

      进了门，眼前就是奇迹广场，绿色的草地里规规矩矩地摆着这几个十一世纪开始建筑、现在又经过联合国批准的世界文化遗产。

      圆顶的洗礼堂女儿墙下雕满了圣人，几个大门又是饰满了青铜的精美浮雕，永远地讲述圣经的故事。大教堂前方后园，又是个十字架的平面。教堂大门的上方，是马赛克镶嵌的圣母圣父的神像，在太阳的照耀下熠熠放光。教堂里面垂吊的铜灯最有仙气；上帝通过它向伽利略传递了灵感，让伽利略发明了时钟的钟摆。在往后就是斜塔啦，58米高的塔顶，让伽利略有地方往下扔铅球，相差十倍的两个球居然同时落地，他的实验改变了谁重谁先落地的习惯思维，从此自由落体有了定律。不过成也萧何败也萧何，伽利略在这里的实验得罪了教会，比萨大学的教授都不让当了。好在此时伽利略才25，回到佛罗伦萨又继续发展啦。墓地在北面，长墙的中间一个小门，上面站着几个不知是谁的先人。

      比萨斜塔本来的设计就精美，空心圆柱型的钟楼开创了钟楼建筑的先河，华美的大理石装饰和大教堂洗礼堂相映成辉。斜塔共有八层，除底层和顶层有所不同外，其余六层结构完全一样。斜塔底层有15根圆柱，中间六层各有31根圆柱，顶层12根。沿石柱有宽4米的环行走道。斜塔每层都有拱门，总共有213个，斜塔底层墙壁上刻有浮雕，顶层有钟亭。塔内有螺旋台阶294级，供人登塔。 1173年，著名建筑师那诺·皮萨诺主持修建，开始作为比萨城的标志想修到100米，但是到了1185年，建到第4层时发现由于地基不均匀和土层松软，导致钟楼已经倾斜偏向东南方，工程只好停下，挂了一个撞钟，实现了它作为钟楼的初衷。1231年，来了个西蒙，工程继续，就像孩子搭积木一样刻意将钟楼上层搭建成反方向的倾斜，以便补偿已经发生的重心偏离。1278年进展到第7层的时候，塔身不再呈直线，而是为凹形，可能因为打仗工程再次叫停。在停滞了差不多一个世纪后1360年，又来了汤玛索，毕萨诺两个大建筑师。好像这个时候钟楼底下的泥土变得结实了点，他两算了半天，到1372年盖完了八层，不敢再往上就封了顶，又算搭上了最后一块积木。建成后的钟楼挂了7口钟，但是害怕钟声的共鸣把钟楼震塌，谁也没敢敲过。再往后，钟楼慢慢地斜，越斜名气越大。从墨索里尼那时候就对斜塔斥巨资，挖坑灌浆地防止倒塌，后来又用各种先进的技术不停的维护，都不见明显好转。到现在，钟楼的倾斜的程度权威说法是倾斜约10%，即5.5度，偏离地基外沿2.3米，顶层突出4.5米。不过专家说，斜塔还能维持300年 不倒。可能还是意大利的音乐家发现，空心斜塔就像个教堂里面管风琴的大管，音响极佳。比萨政府据说近期要在这里开个世界级的音乐会，相信有斜塔的神助，一定辉煌啊！

 p1 奇迹广场                                                                                                                                          -

p2  洗礼堂                                                                                                                                           - 

p3 洗礼堂                                                                                                                             -

p4 洗礼堂                                                                                                                                -

p5 洗礼堂                                                                                                                                                -

p6  洗礼堂                                                                                                                                                  -

p7  比萨教堂                                                                                                                                                 -

p8  比萨教堂                                                                                                                                           - 

       p9  教堂之门                                                                                                                                           -

p10  教堂之门                                                                                                                                             -

p11 教堂之门                                                                                                                                - 

p12  教堂之门                                                                                                                                            -

p13  教堂之门                                                                                                                                            -

p14  教堂之门                                                                                                                                               -

p15  教堂之门                                                                                                                                             - 

p16  教堂之门                                                                                                                                 -

 p17  看看咋样？嗯，不错                                                                                                         -

 p18  比萨墓地                                                                                                                                - 

p19  比萨墓地                                                                                                                             - 

p20  比萨墓地                                                                                                                          - 

 p21  比萨斜塔                                                                                                                       - 

p22                                                                                                                                                  -

p23                                                                                                                                                   - 

p24  意大利的国王都是吃狼奶长大的啊                                                                                              -

p25  比萨斜塔入口                                                                                                                                         -

p26                                                                                                                                                             -

p27  教堂后面                                                                                                                                           - 

p28  教堂侧门                                                                                                                             - 

p29  教堂侧门                                                                                                                                          -

p30                                                                                                                                                             -

p31  雄赳赳气昂昂                                                                                                                                           -

p32                                                                                                                                              - 

 p33  城门                                                                                                                                 -

p34                                                                                                                                          - 

p35  再见！                                                                                                                                 - 

 

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