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来源| 服装百事通

Part 1

EDITOR

成衣量度点及名称图示

Part 2

EDITOR

领 Collar

1

领的款式(Collar Type)

A、上级领  (Top Collar)

a.尖领   (Point Collar)  

b.直尖领  (Straight Point Collar)

c.英式领  (English Collar)

d.一字领   (Spread Collar)

e.八字领  (Spread Collar)

f.领嘴钮领  (Button Down Collar)

g.暗领嘴钮领(1)  【Hidden Button Down Collar(1)】

h.暗领嘴钮领(2)  Hidden Button Down Collar（2）

i.斜插足领  (Dias Stay Collar)

j.直插足领  (Straight Stay Collar)

k.直夏威夷领  (Hawaii Collar)

l.假夏威夷领  (Mock Hawaii Collar)

m.三尖耳仔搭带领  (Inserted Point Tab Collar)

n.方形耳仔搭带领  (Square Tab Collar)

o.中国领+假领  (Mandarin Collar or Mock Collar)

p.一片领（原身出下级）  Piece Collar

注：假下级可间线，亦可不间。

注：上、下级领的间线有单、双线之分，及领底有间线和不间线之分。

B、下级领   Neckband

a.月光下级领  (Half Moon Neckband)

b.圆嘴下级领  (Round Tip Neckband)

c.方嘴下级领  (Square Tip Neckband)

d.普通间下级 (Regular Top-stitch Band)

e.兜咀间下级  (Full Top-stitch Band)

2

领的组成及部位名称(Parts with Name)

3

领各部位尺寸的度法(Method of Measuring Collar)

Part 3

EDITOR

前幅 Body Front

1

前幅的组成及部位名称(Parts with Names)

2

筒的款式 (Placket Type)

A.暗筒 (Concealed  Placket/Invisible Placket)

B.落贴明筒 （有间单、双线之不同）

Placket with Lining (with  Single Stitch or double)

C.双折筒  （间边线或暗线）

Double Fold placket ( Edge Stitch or Concealed Stitch )

注：有及骨和无及骨之分  Overlock Safety or not

D.夹筒  (Medium Placket)

E.假反明筒 (Mock Placket)

F.假反暗筒 (Mock Concealed Placket)

G.拉钮子筒 (止口顶尽)

Button Placket without (Seam Allowance)

H.拉钮子筒 (止口3/8')

Button Placket with 3/8'  Seam Allowance

I.夹暗线筒  Placket with Concealed Stitch

J.半胸三尖明筒  Visible Half Placket with Pointed Box

K.暗线半胸筒  封三尖筒顶

Invisible Half Placket  with Pointed Box

L.半胸平顶明筒  Visible Half Placket with Square Box

M.半胸双叠筒  Lapped Half Placket

N、暗线半胸筒  封直筒顶

Invisible Half Pocket   with Square Box

3

钮子的款式 Under Placket Type

A、拉3/8'钮子  under Placket with 3/8' Stitch （参照筒款中之 H 款做法）

B.双折钮子（止口顶尽） Double Fold under Placket without Seam Allowance  （参照筒款中之 G 款做法）

C.夹钮子  Set under Placket  （参照筒款中之 D 款做法）

D.筒式钮子  Button Placket  （参照筒款中之 B 款做法）

4

袋的款式  Pocket Type

A.袋的款式  Pocket Type

a、原身假反直袋口+六角袋+回针封袋角

Imitation Straight Pocket Hem + Hex-angular  Pocket with Reverse Stitch 

b、直袋口+纵纹圆袋  Straight Pocket Hem + Dias Round Pocket

c、原身假反三尖袋口+圆袋+间直角袋口  Imitation Pointed Pocket Hem +Round Pocket with 3 Return Recangular Stitch  

d、三尖袋口+三尖袋+间斜角袋口  Pointed Pocket Hem +Pointed Pocket with 3 Return Triangular Stitch

e、单唇袋  Single Welted Pocket

f、双唇袋 Double Welted Pocket

g、工字褶袋 Box-pleat Pocket

h、打鼓袋（反工字褶袋） Inverted Box-pleat Pocket

i、插笔袋     Pocket with Pencil Slot

B、袋盖的款式  Pocket flaps Type

a、方袋盖+纵纹  Square Pocket Flap+dias

b、圆袋盖  Round Pocket Flap

c、六角袋盖  Hex-angular Pocket Flap

d、桃形袋盖  Pointed Center Round Corner Flap

f、弧形袋盖  Arch Pocket Flap

g、三尖袋盖  Pointed Pocket Flap

5

前幅各部位尺寸的度法Method of Measuring Front Body

Part 4

EDITOR

后幅 Body Back

1

后幅的组成及部位名称 Parts with Names

2

担干款式 Yoke Type

A.担干破中骨（驳担干） Slipt Yoke 

B.三尖担干 Pointed Yoke

C.弧形担干  Arch Shape Yoke

D.波浪形担干 Wavy Yoke

3

背褶款式 Back Pleats Type

A.工字褶+耳仔（摄入1/4'，不得超出后幅)

Box Pleat With Locker Loop

B.反工字褶 Inverted Box Pleats

C.刀褶 Knife Pleats/Side pleats

4

后幅各部位尺寸的度法 Method of Measuring Body Back

Part 5

EDITOR

袖 Sleeve

1

袖的组成及部位名称 Parts with Names

2

袖的款式 Sleeve Type

A.长袖+后袖破骨（破骨袖）

 Long Sleeve+Split Back Sleeve(Split Sleeve)

B.中袖+袖中开叉  Medium Sleeve+Center Sleeve Slit

C.短袖  Short Sleeve

D.无袖+拉夹圈捆条  Sleeveless+Armhole Gange

F.牛角袖  Horn Sleeve

3

袖叉款式 Sleeve Slit Type

A.假介英，袖中分叉  Mock Cuff,Sleeve Center Slit

B.原身出袖口，后袖分中开袖叉  

Self Cuff Showing,Back Sleeve Center Slit

C.原身出袖叉，叉顶回针横封  Self Slit,Top Reverse Stitch

D.拉平顶大侧，加间边线，双线封侧顶

Flat Top Sleeve Placket，with Edge Stitch，Double Needle Square Box

E.原身出细侧，拉三尖大侧，单线封侧顶

Self Under Sleeve Placket，Set Pointer Sleeve Placket，Single Needle Pointed Box

F.R侧  'R' Sleeve Placket

4

袖褶方向 Direction of Sleeve Pleats

A.折向大侧  Towards Sleeve Placket

B.折向侧骨  Towards Side Seam

5

袖各部位尺寸的度法 Method of Measuring Sleeve

Part 6

EDITOR

介英  Cuff

1

介英的组成及部位名称 Parts with Names

2

介英款式 Cuff Type

A.方角介英+面间1/4'单线+1/4'包朴线

Square Cuff+with 1/4' Single Stitch+Hem Cuff with 1/4'

B.圆角介英+面间边线+1/2'包朴线

Round Cuff+with Edge Stitch+Hem Cuff with 1/2'

C.六角介英+面间1/4'双线+双钮门

Hexangular Cuff+with 1/4' Double Stitch+Double Button Hole

D.大介英+绳结钮  French Cuff +Strap Tie Button

3

介英各部位尺寸的度法 Method of Measuring Cuff

Part 7

EDITOR

不同的车缝骨 Type of Seam 

A.假双埋夹_ '——平针底  Felled Sideseam -- Lockstitch 

B.单针埋夹间_'——平针底  1N Sideseam with_ '  Lockstitch

C.包婆仔骨  French Seam

D.双针埋夹_'  2N Side Seam with_'

E.三线及骨  3 Thread Overlock Safety

F.四线及骨  4 Thread Overlock Safety

G.五线及骨  5 Thread Overlock Safety

H.冚虾须线  Double Needle Coverstitch

Part 8

EDITOR

一般车缝工序流程

 

1

杨梅部分  Sewing in YMB

A.领：Collar

上级领 Top Collar

a.(车插足领)  (Stay Pocket or Stitch Stay Collar)

b.运上级领   Run Collar 

c.修领尖+反烫领  Trim Collar Point+Turn Press Fall

d.烫领骨+查对  Press Fall+Inspection

e.间上级领   Topstitch Collar

f.切领脚+打中呃  Collar Edge Trimming+Center Notching

下级领   Neckband

a、包下级朴   Neckband Lining Hem

上级领f+下级领a   Top Collar+Neck Band

g.落下级   Collar Band Setting

h.反烫下级+修止口  Turn Press Neck Bank + Trim Seam Allowance

i.间下级  Topstitch Neckband

j.打下级钮门  Band Button-holing 

k.钉下级钮  Band Buttoning

l.切下级脚+点领位  Trim Neckbank+Notch Collar

B.前幅（男装左胸单袋为例） Body Front

左前幅     Left Front Body 

a.切筒贴  Trim Front Placket Facing

b.拉筒   Set Placket or Top Center

袋  Pocket

a.烫袋口  Press Pocket Hem

b.车袋口  Stitch Pocket Hem

c.焗袋  Press Pocket

左前幅b+袋c  Left Front Body b + Pocket c

d.装袋  Set Pocket

右前幅   Right Front Body

a.拉钮子  Set Under Placket 

b.车钮子注意唛  Set Right Front Label

d+右前幅b  d + Right Front Body b

e.修领窝  Trim Neckseam

f.打钮门  Front Button-holing

g.钉钮   Front Buttoning

C.后幅  Body Back

a.驳担干  Split Yoke

b.车主唛  Stitch Main Label

c.打后幅褶+落耳仔  Back  Pleats + Locker Loop 

d.落担干  Set Yoke

e.烫修担干  Press and Trim Yoke

D.袖   Sleeve

a.拉细侧  Set Sleeve Placket

b.夹大侧+封三尖  Set Slip to Slip + Finish Sleeve Placket

c.打袖侧钮门  Sleeve Placket Button-holing

d.钉钮  Sleeve Placket Buttoning

E.介英  Cuff

a.包介英朴  Set Interlining to Cuff

b.运介英   Run Cuff 

c.反介英  Turn Cuff

d.间介英  Topstitch Cuff

e.打介英钮门  Cuff Button-holing

f.钉介英钮   Cuff Buttoning

2

香港部分 Sewing in Hongkong

A.纳膊   Join Shoulder

B.上袖   Set Sleeve

C.埋夹   Close Side or Close Side Seam

D.上领   Set Collar

F.上介英  Set Cuff