The famous Peking roast duck, or kaoya, is said to be a specialty that originated in Nanjing, only to later travel to Beijing, thanks to the development of the Grand Canal.
没有一只鸭能活着离开南京，但它的归宿不一定是盐水鸭，也可能是烤鸭；如果它能活着，大概是拿到了“进京证”。相传，北京烤鸭源于金陵，得益于大运河的开凿。No, I'm not kidding. I learned about this from Paddling for a Thousand Miles, an exhibition at the National Museum of China which navigates the history of the Grand Canal.这话不是我编的，是国博《舟楫千里——大运河文化展》给的官方答案。Studies have found that white lake ducks in Jiangnan were shipped along the Grand Canal to Beijing, and afterwards these ducks were tamed and localized to become a major source for Peking kaoya.先说烤鸭用的鸭子。目前考据有一种说法是，往来于大运河的船只将江南的白色湖鸭贩卖到北京，这些鸭子进京后被驯化，成为新土著北京鸭。Meanwhile, another saying tells a different story. After Zhu Di, the Yongle Emperor of Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), moved the capital from Nanjing to Beijing, a large number of goods were transported to the new capital along the Grand Canal.永乐帝朱棣将皇城由南京迁至北京，随之而来的，大量来自南方的货物通过大运河被输送进京。When these commodity boats closed in on Beijing, grains often fell from broken bags into the water. Ducks reared in villages nearby ate the grain, grew stronger, and were later discovered as a quality source of roast meat.这些货船中也包括许多运粮的船。船只即将到达京城的时候，有的粮袋已经破了，粮食顺着裂开的口子落到河水中，然后就被沿岸村子里养的鸭子们给吃了。久而久之，人们发现这些吃了“皇粮”的鸭鸭的体型、肉质都起了变化，是烧烤的好食材。The preparation method for kaoya is also believed to be a technique mastered by chefs at the royal court in Nanjing, and it was taken to Beijing so that Zhu Di could still savor the taste.相传烤鸭的制作技艺也来自金陵。朱棣在迁都时，将南京宫廷的烤鸭技艺一并带到了北京。A century later during the Jiajing reign, the recipe was transmitted outside the imperial city, and added to the menu at restaurants.We knew the Grand Canal from brief introductions in textbooks. At this exhibition, we will reach the depth and scope of the longest artificial waterway in the world. 我们从小就在教科书中知道了大运河，但大多是粗浅的了解。《舟楫千里》这个展览将引领我们深入探索世界上最长人工开凿水道。When and how the different sections of it were excavated, its importance to ancient rulers in unifying the North and South and boosting economic and cultural exchanges, and its role in advancing water conservancy technologies and transportation management.比如，大运河的不同河段是何时、如何被开凿的，大运河对于封建王朝统一南北、促进经济文化交流的重要性，以及挖掘、修建大运河如何推动古代水利技术和运输管理的进步。It's an ambitious project to transport more than commodities and delicacies. Also it reflects the creativity and wisdom of ancient Chinese.这不仅仅是一条用“顶级流量”疯狂“带货”、传递“美味”的河，这更是一条凝结了古人创造力和智慧的河。
|
