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建国西路与永嘉路是两条相邻的道路，它们走向相同，起点也相同，都是从瑞金二路开始向西，但是终点不同，永嘉路稍短，在高安路结束，而建国西路还要往前，一直到宛平路结束。 当然这两条路同样精彩，在《带侬兜马路》这本书中为了篇幅的关系，舍弃了相似的路段，当然我们还是可以在公众号上来诠释它的精彩。 
建国西路东段为1912年法租界公董局越界辟筑，名为靶子路（Route Range）或打靶场路(Rue du Champ de Tir)，从这条信息上可以了解到公共租界和法租界的靶场都不在一个地方,显然这地方当时也够荒凉的，但是在上海整个区域发展的过程中，越是向西因为地皮便宜，所以后续建造的建筑也就没有东面那么拥挤，按现在的说法就是低容积率社区，建筑的形式也就越来越漂亮。1920年这条路以旅沪法侨名更名为福履理路（Route J. Frelupt）。1922年到1925年，逐渐向西延伸至贝当路(现在的衡山路)，当然这个描述和永嘉路有点混淆，准确的应该是到宛平路。然后到了1943年原法租界的道路名称基本上都按新的规定做了更改，短暂的被改作南海路，1945年又改为建国西路至今未变。那么视频内容因为不能做得太长，现在的人都是快节奏，于是视频仅仅是一个内容的开篇，引子而已，真正的故事展开是让有兴趣探个究竟的朋友读的，所以文字部分我们一点点展开。其实建国西路一展开就是惊心动魄的谍战片，因为它的东面就是原来法租界的政法机构，所以相邻的道路上都留下了这些机构延伸的痕迹，这就是建国西路25弄楚园。
弄堂口有文保的牌子 
等于什么都没说
走进去看出点名堂了，因为楚园应该有6个门牌号码，而你实际上只能看到沿街的5个门牌号，那么6号在哪？应该就是那个有铁丝网，有探头的后面这栋楼，这就是原来楚园里卢英的宅子，虽然这是后来改建的房子，但是只有这里才有可能容纳“军统优待室”那么多人。
同时我们也可以解释这条弄堂为什么叫“楚园”，它应该是有花园的。
为了确认楚园已经划归另一个场所，特意从电子地图上遥感一下，这不，右上角灰白色的建筑屋顶就是刚才铁丝网内的房子了，那么铁丝网区域内是什么地方？上海市人民检察院。这就可以解释这种被军统“污染”过的房子，怎么可能不被作为敌产没收呢。然后按一个系统分配没收后的财产，划归政法系统就顺理成章了。后续我们就可以看到民国时期它就是上海高等法院检察处的所在地，只是原来地方没那么大而已。
放大一点看看
其实走过看看楚园并不起眼，甚至于建筑都没有什么可圈可点的地方（因为精彩的部分圈到围墙外了），但是我们来看宋路霞老师2014年在安徽文艺出版社上出版的《十里洋场的民国旧事》一文，这是根据孙曜东口述整理的内容，其中就讲到了楚园。楚园是上海建国西路上一条不大的弄堂，弄内原有六幢小洋楼，过去是伪上海警察局局长卢英的房子。抗战胜利后卢英被捕，这些房产被国民党的军统组织没收，其中一幢五开间的带花园的大花园洋房，被戴笠拿来成立了“军统优待室”，关押了一批在沦陷期间，与军统组织多少有些联系的汉奸（个别人例外），其中有缪斌、温宗尧、梁鸿志、盛文颐（即盛老三）、闻兰亭、唐寿民、吴蕴斋、朱博泉、唐海安、严庆祥、沈长赓、张慰如、金雄白，等等，差不多七十二位“房客”。从1945年11月至1946年5月底，大约有半年多时间。这当中的故事就相当有趣了，因为曾经为日本人做过事的这点汉奸都在里面各显神通，想办法逃过惩罚，当然军统也在此尽量多榨一点油水出来，双方的较量相当有趣。然后为啥在楚园设立这样一个“军统优待室”？再查到一篇许洪新写的《建国中路环周司法机构历史演进探讨》附录，这篇内容解释了这地方的演变过程，这样就容易理解它的功能转换的逻辑性。我们可以在文中看到，最高法院上海特区分庭，系江苏高二、高三两分院的上诉机构，1938年2月设于西咸爱斯路23弄恒爱里，1940年11月8日迁北浙江路191号（会审公廨）。到了汪伪时期的上海高等检察署，1943年8月，设于西咸爱斯路恒爱里（23弄）8-12号。抗战胜利后上海高等法院检察处。1945年10月15日设，初设于永嘉路23弄内（前面讲到的西咸爱斯路恒爱里就是1943年后改名的永嘉路23弄），次年12月16日迁建国西路25弄，即楚园。抗战胜利后，在此关押数量颇多的汉奸。这样就理顺了这条弄堂成为“军统优待室”的隶属关系，所以它不单单是因为伪警察局长卢英的房子收过来顺手使用。
然后是马路对面56弄曲园，如果你搜索一下这条弄堂的信息，劈头盖脑的都是房产中介的内容，说明这条弄堂里最近要求卖出的房子不少，这不像巨富长的房源那么稀少。其实你走进弄堂就可以看到它的布局和建筑形式有点像愚园路上的宏业花园，按上海人来说不正气，显然不属于一个开发商来完成的建筑布局和房屋设计。
然后再向西走，这条路上最精彩的就是建国西路144号至148号了，这是所有走过建国西路的朋友都不容错过的，当然至今还没有人考证出它的出处，仅有@高参88提示：福履里路148号国民政府救济水灾委员会第十六区工赈局局长汤震龙寓所，我们从它的建筑结构来判断出该建筑属于上世纪三十年代中叶之前的建筑，所以汤震龙肯定不是它的第一任主人。
我是数次在这条弄堂里进进出出，企图一探究竟，总不得要领，终于有一次在著名老洋房买卖中介周璇的引导下才如愿以偿（他有公众号“上海新里洋房”，有兴趣的朋友可以去看看，里面有很多上海老洋房的案例），这就是148号这一组照片的来历。
当然后来有了无人机，也希望从不同角度来观察这些建筑的相关性和布局，才完成了它的整体记录。
到了建国西路323号，这就是曾经在里面搞过活动的会所，前段时间关闭过，现在不知道是否换了老板，由于赉安设计的建筑大多数都在原法租界范围内，所以这栋建筑也被认定为赉安设计的建筑之一，进去过的朋友常常被它的楼道所惊叹，原来的那篇内容有更多的图片介绍，值得点进去看看：#老寿眼中的上海#老洋房内的旗袍派对。
现在边门是这样滴
然后就是相邻的弄堂，可以说建国西路上的弄堂成规模的应该就是步高里、建业里和懿园，这都是大的财团在运作，所以以统一的形式来吸引人，而其他的弄堂都比较短，就是深一点的弄堂，如福禄邨里面的建筑还是有些许差异。在建国西路襄阳南路一侧，我特意考证过荣公馆的具体属性，也是一篇有意思的短文，应该是所有在这个区域内走读时可以勘误的内容，不点开有点可惜了：建国西路上的荣宅究竟是谁家的房子？。我在建国西路上扫过若干遍，飞过若干处，只是有些照片不一定适合发表，有机会在特定的讲座上会做展示。
A Must-Visit on Your City Walk: Jio West Road
Jianguo West Road and Yongjia Road are two adjacent thoroughfares that share the same orientation and starting point, both commencing from Ruijin Second Road and heading westward. However, they diverge at their endpoints; Yongjia Road is slightly shorter, concluding at Gao'an Road, while Jianguo West Road continues onward until it reaches Wanping Road.
Both roads are equally captivating. In the book "Dai Nong Dou Ma Lu," for the sake of brevity, the author chose to omit the similar segments, yet we can still explore their unique charm through our public account.
建业里
The eastern section of Jianguo West Road was constructed in 1912 by the French Municipal Council, originally named Baizi Road (Route Range) or Shooting Range Road (Rue du Champ de Tir). This nomenclature indicates that the shooting ranges for the International Settlement and the French Concession were located in different areas, reflecting the relative desolation of the locale at that time. As Shanghai developed, the western part of the city, being more affordable, saw a proliferation of buildings that were less densely packed compared to those in the east. In contemporary terms, this area can be described as a low-density community, with increasingly beautiful architectural styles emerging.In 1920, the road was renamed Fulu Li Road (Route J. Frelupt) in honor of a prominent French expatriate. Between 1922 and 1925, it gradually extended westward to Beitang Road (now Hengshan Road), although this description can be somewhat confusing when compared to Yongjia Road; the accurate endpoint should be Wanping Road. By 1943, most roads in the former French Concession underwent renaming in accordance with new regulations, briefly becoming Nanhai Road. In 1945, it was officially renamed Jianguo West Road, a title it has retained ever since.Due to the fast-paced nature of contemporary life, the video content cannot be overly lengthy; it serves merely as an introduction to the subject matter. The true narrative unfolds for those intrigued enough to delve deeper, which is why we will gradually elaborate on the written portion.Jianguo West Road unfolds like a gripping spy thriller, as its eastern side is adjacent to the former French Concession's political and judicial institutions. The neighboring streets bear traces of these historical entities, particularly evident in Lane 25 of Jianguo West Road, known as Chuyuan.
楚园弄堂口
建国西路25弄5号
楚园沿街建筑
At first glance, Chuyuan may appear unremarkable, with its architecture lacking distinctive features. However, a closer examination reveals its historical significance. In her 2014 publication, "Stories of the Republic Era in the Bund," released by Anhui Literature and Art Publishing House, author Song Luxia presents a compelling account based on oral histories from Sun Yaodong, which includes references to Chuyuan.
Chuyuan is a modest alley located on Jianguo West Road in Shanghai, originally home to six small villas that once belonged to Lu Ying, the head of the puppet Shanghai police. Following the victory in the War of Resistance, Lu Ying was apprehended, and these properties were confiscated by the Kuomintang's military intelligence agency, the Military Commission. Among them, a spacious villa with five rooms and a garden was repurposed by Dai Li to establish a "Military Commission Privilege Room," where a number of collaborators, who had varying degrees of association with the Military Commission during the occupation, were detained. This included individuals such as Miao Bin, Wen Zongyao, Liang Hongzhi, Sheng Wenyu (known as Sheng Laosan), Wen Lanting, Tang Shoumin, Wu Yunzai, Zhu Boquan, Tang Haian, Yan Qingxiang, Shen Changgen, Zhang Weiru, and Jin Xiongbo, totaling approximately seventy-two "residents." This period spanned from November 1945 to the end of May 1946, lasting over six months.The stories that emerged during this time are quite fascinating, as these collaborators, having previously served the Japanese, employed various tactics to evade punishment. Naturally, the Military Commission sought to extract as much leverage as possible from the situation, resulting in a captivating interplay between the two parties.But why was such a "Military Commission Privilege Room" established in Chuyuan? Further investigation led me to an article by Xu Hongxin titled "Exploring the Historical Evolution of the Judicial Institutions along Jianguo Middle Road," which provides insights into the transformation of this location. This context helps elucidate the logical progression of its functional changes.The text reveals that the Supreme Court's Shanghai Special District Branch served as the appellate institution for the Second and Third Branches of the Jiangsu High Court. Established in February 1938 at 23 Lane, Xixian Aisi Road, it relocated on November 8, 1940, to 191 Beizhejiang Road (the Court of Review).During the Wang Jingwei regime, the Shanghai High Prosecutor's Office was established in August 1943 at 8-12 Lane 23, Xixian Aisi Road (now known as Yongjia Road). Following the victory in the War of Resistance, the Shanghai High Court Prosecutor's Office was set up on October 15, 1945, initially located within Lane 23 of Yongjia Road (the earlier Xixian Aisi Road location had been renamed after 1943). On December 16 of the following year, it moved to Lane 25 of Jianguo West Road, specifically to Chuyuan, where a significant number of collaborators were detained after the war. This clarifies the connection of this alley to the designation of the "Military Commission Privilege Room," indicating that its function was not merely a convenient repurposing of Lu Ying's former residence.
建国西路56弄曲园
Across the street lies Lane 56, known as Quyuan. A search for information about this alley reveals an abundance of real estate listings, suggesting that numerous properties are currently on the market, unlike the scarcity of listings in affluent areas. Upon entering the alley, one can observe that its layout and architectural style bear a resemblance to the Hongye Garden on Yuyuan Road. To the discerning eye of a Shanghai native, this design appears somewhat unorthodox, clearly indicating that it was not the product of a developer's vision, but rather reflects a more eclectic approach to architectural layout and home design.Continuing west, the most captivating section of Jianguo West Road lies between numbers 144 and 148, a must-visit for anyone traversing this thoroughfare. To date, the origin of these buildings has not been definitively established, though @高参88 noted that 148 Fulu Li Road was the residence of Tang Zhenlong, the director of the Relief Bureau of the National Government's Flood Relief Committee for the sixteenth district. Based on the architectural structure, we can infer that this building dates back to the mid-1930s, suggesting that Tang Zhenlong was not its original owner.I have wandered in and out of this alley several times, attempting to uncover its secrets, but to no avail—until one fortunate occasion when I was guided by the renowned real estate agent Zhou Xuan, which ultimately led to the acquisition of the photographs associated with 148.With the advent of drones, I hope to observe these buildings from different perspectives to better understand their relationships and layout, thereby completing a comprehensive record.As we proceed, we encounter Bugaoli, which I have previously written about in a standalone article, so I shall refrain from repetition. For those interested, please click here.
你知道是哪里？
Arriving at 323 Jianguo West Road, we find a former clubhouse that hosted various activities. It closed down recently, and it remains uncertain whether it has changed ownership. Most of the buildings designed by Lai An are located within the former French Concession, and this particular structure is also recognized as one of his designs. Visitors often express awe at its corridors. The earlier piece contains more images and is worth exploring.
建国西路570号
Adjacent to this area, the alleys that stand out along Jianguo West Road include Bugaoli, Jianye Li, and Yiyuan, all of which are operated by large financial groups, presenting a unified architectural style to attract interest. In contrast, other alleys are relatively short, such as the deeper structures within Fulu Village, which exhibit some variation.On the side of Jianguo West Road adjacent to Xiangyang South Road, I took the time to investigate the specific attributes of the Rong Mansion, which is an intriguing short article that could serve as a valuable resource for anyone exploring this area. It would be a pity not to click through.
I have scanned Jianguo West Road multiple times and flown over various sections; however, some photographs may not be suitable for publication. I plan to showcase them at specific lectures when the opportunity arises.
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